PD Smith

Dr Strangelove, Leo Szilard & the Doomsday Men: On the 50th Anniversary

31 January 2014 | Atomic Age, atomic bomb, C-bomb, cold war, Doomsday Machine, Doomsday Men, Dr Strangelove, H-bomb, Kubrick, mad scientist, My Books, nuclear weapons, scientists, SF, Szilard, Teller, Watching the Detectives, WMD | One comment

It’s the fifti­eth anniver­sary of the release of one of my favourite films – Stan­ley Kubrick’s Dr Strangelove or: How I Learned to Stop Wor­ry­ing and Love the Bomb. Described by the direc­tor as a satire about a ‘nuclear Wise Man’, it was co-writ­ten by Peter George, the British author of the 1958 nov­el on which the film is based, Red Alert, pub­lished under his pen name, Peter Bryant. In Britain the nov­el was called Two Hours to Doom.

Bryant, Red Alert, Ace

Kubrick read George’s thriller in Octo­ber 1961, the month Sovi­et sci­en­tists test­ed the largest nuclear bomb ever det­o­nat­ed. On 30 Octo­ber at 08.30 GMT, sci­en­tists in Europe detect­ed what was described as ‘the biggest man-made explo­sion on record’. Newsweek described the super­bomb as ‘Khrushchev’s mon­ster’. On an aer­i­al pho­to of Man­hat­tan Island, the mag­a­zine mapped the extent of its awe­some destruc­tive pow­er. The bomb had a yield of at least 50 mega­tons. It would blast a crater at least a mile wide and would lev­el build­ings up to ten miles from ground zero. New York with its proud sky­scrap­ers would be reduced to a radioac­tive waste­land.

Lat­er, sci­en­tists said that the Rus­sians had mod­i­fied the bomb for the test; if it was ever used in war it would explode with a force of 100 mega­tons. The Hiroshi­ma bomb was a mere 12.5 kilo­tons. The Sovi­ets nick­named their super­weapon the Tsar Bom­ba, ‘King of Bombs’. Andrei Sakharov, who designed it under direct orders from Khrushchev, called it sim­ply the Big Bomb. The det­o­na­tion of the Tsar Bom­ba made Kubrick even more deter­mined to make a movie about nuclear war. He had become obsessed with the sub­ject.

Dr strangelove poster

Kubrick and George’s film was well received when it was final­ly released in Jan­u­ary 1964 – the press screen­ing of Dr Strangelove was orig­i­nal­ly due to take place on 22 Novem­ber 1963, the day of Pres­i­dent Kennedy’s assas­si­na­tion. The New York Times panned the movie as a ‘shattering sick joke’. But Sight and Sound said it demon­strat­ed how ‘power pol­i­tics have become a Franken­stein mon­ster which one lit­tle error can send out of con­trol’. Their crit­ic praised it as ‘the most hilar­i­ous­ly fun­ny and the most night­mar­ish film of the year’. For the New States­man it was a ‘mesmeric’ film that set out ‘to cre­ate its own cat­e­go­ry or genre.’ Despite Pere­grine Worsthorne in the Sun­day Tele­graph liken­ing Kubrick’s por­tray­al of Amer­i­cans to Sovi­et pro­pa­gan­da, the film was huge­ly pop­u­lar with movie­go­ers who ‘ringed the block’ at the Colum­bia cin­e­ma in Lon­don. The cin­e­ma even had to put on spe­cial late screen­ings at 11 p.m. each night. Tick­et sales were 25 per cent high­er than for any oth­er film the Colum­bia had shown, and The Times report­ed that ‘all house records have been bro­ken’.

Of course, it is the fig­ure of the mad sci­en­tist, Dr Strangelove, that has helped make the film so mem­o­rable. Peter Sell­ers suc­ceeds won­der­ful­ly in fus­ing togeth­er the traits of the real-life, and indeed fic­tion­al, fig­ures on which he is based. Through the alche­my of film-mak­ing, Kubrick and Sell­ers cre­at­ed cin­e­mat­ic gold in the fig­ure of Dr Strangelove.

The so-called father of the H‑Bomb Edward Teller, Hitler’s rock­et pio­neer Wern­her von Braun and the hawk­ish, wheel-chair-bound math­e­mati­cian John von Neu­mann were all key play­ers in the sci­ences of destruc­tion. The ref­er­ences to Peen­emünde and the con­cen­tra­tion camps in the film’s nov­el­iza­tion make it abun­dant­ly clear that von Braun was Peter George’s main mod­el for Dr Strangelove. How­ev­er, his words are those of the man who had worked with and admired both Teller and von Neu­mann: Her­man Kahn, the physi­cist and futur­ol­o­gist who pop­u­lar­ized the idea of the dooms­day machine. He was the per­son­i­fi­ca­tion of the mil­i­tary intel­lec­tu­al – detached and cold­ly ratio­nal. Like the four rid­ers of the apoc­a­lypse, these fig­ures come togeth­er in the unfor­get­table char­ac­ter of Dr Strangelove, the ulti­mate dooms­day man.

For the his­to­ri­an and cul­tur­al com­men­ta­tor Lewis Mum­ford, respond­ing to the New York Times’ pan­ning of the film, Kubrick’s mas­ter­stroke was to make Dr Strangelove ‘the cen­tral sym­bol of this sci­en­tif­i­cal­ly orga­nized night­mare of mass exter­mi­na­tion’. For Mum­ford, the tragedy of the age they were liv­ing in was elo­quent­ly expressed by the man­ic fig­ure of this fanat­i­cal ratio­nal­ist:

‘This night­mare even­tu­al­i­ty that we have con­coct­ed for our chil­dren is noth­ing but a crazy fan­ta­sy, by nature as hor­ri­bly crip­pled and dehu­man­ized as Dr Strangelove him­self.’

He con­clud­ed by hail­ing Kubrick’s film as ‘the first break in the cata­ton­ic cold-war trance that has so long held our coun­try in its rigid grip.’

Mum­ford was absolute­ly right to iden­ti­fy Kubrick’s film as a cru­cial moment in the cul­ture of the cold war. For peo­ple all over the world, Dr Strangelove soon came to per­son­i­fy the sin­is­ter alliance of sci­ence and pow­er pol­i­tics that made it pos­si­ble to anni­hi­late mil­lions at the touch of a but­ton. Dr Strangelove’s log­ic could trans­form acts of inhu­man­i­ty into prac­ti­cal solu­tions, his rhetoric clothed bar­bar­i­ty in sweet words of rea­son, and his think tanks – such as the ‘Bland Cor­po­ra­tion’ (an allu­sion to Her­man Kahn’s RAND Cor­po­ra­tion) – used com­put­ers to trans­form lives into num­bers. For num­bers, as Kahn once said, are some­thing you can think the unthink­able about.

Williams, Day they H-Bombed Los Angeles, 1961, descreening

Dr Strangelove ends with an awe­some dis­play of mush­room clouds erupt­ing across the face of the earth, as the cobalt bombs of the Sovi­et dooms­day machine explode. News footage of H‑bomb tests is accom­pa­nied by British forces’ favourite Vera Lynn singing ‘We’ll Meet Again’. The bru­tal real­i­ty – ful­ly under­stood by the film’s audi­ence in 1964 – was that there would be no reunions after World War III.

The age of sav­iour sci­en­tists and win­ning weapons – famil­iar themes in the pop­u­lar cul­ture of the first half of the 20th cen­tu­ry – was dead. Nuclear war in the age of the Tsar Bom­ba could have only one out­come: mutu­al anni­hi­la­tion. It was exact­ly this point that the pio­neer­ing nuclear sci­en­tist Leo Szi­lard had made dur­ing a radio broad­cast in Feb­ru­ary 1950, when he first con­jured up the spec­tre of the cobalt bomb, a weapon that could destroy life on Earth. It was this idea that Peter George lat­er used in Red Alert.

In the 1960s, a new gen­er­a­tion began to reject a life reduced to num­bers and to look for answers beyond sci­ence and ratio­nal­i­ty. This gen­er­a­tion no longer felt com­fort­able with the easy post-war cer­tain­ties that their par­ents had accept­ed with­out ques­tion. For those who grew up in an age haunt­ed by the Strangelovean cobalt bomb, the old ways of look­ing at the world seemed to lead to a dead end – to dooms­day.

Atomic Age Opens, 1945

There’s anoth­er 50th anniver­sary this year, and that’s the death on 30 May 1964 of Leo Szi­lard. He was a bril­liant though often infu­ri­at­ing man, burst­ing with orig­i­nal ideas on every­thing from sci­ence to pol­i­tics and even fic­tion. He was, said one col­league, the great­est sci­en­tist nev­er to have won a Nobel prize.

In 1933, while walk­ing down Southamp­ton Row in Lon­don he had seen how a self-sus­tain­ing atom­ic chain reac­tion could lead to an explo­sive release of nuclear ener­gy. A close friend of Albert Ein­stein (they even designed a refrig­er­a­tor togeth­er), it was Szi­lard who encour­aged the great physi­cist to write to Pres­i­dent Roo­sevelt in August 1939 warn­ing of the pos­si­bil­i­ty that Nazi Ger­many might devel­op an atom­ic super­weapon. Leo Szi­lard was inspired by a utopi­an vision of how sci­ence and sci­en­tists could trans­form the world, but he was also haunt­ed by a fear of how peo­ple might mis­use this pow­er. His life epit­o­mizes the glo­ries and fol­lies of twen­ti­eth-cen­tu­ry sci­ence and his­to­ry.

Science Fiction Quarterly, #1 vol 2 Nov 1952, Moskowitz, atom graphic unsharp

I told the remark­able sto­ry of Leo Szi­lard and his nuclear hopes and fears, exam­ined through the lens of pop­u­lar cul­ture, in my book Dooms­day Men pub­lished sev­en years ago. I think it remains rel­e­vant, both as an explo­ration of our ambiva­lence towards sci­ence and sci­en­tists, and as a his­to­ry of weapons of mass destruc­tion. Today, cold-war ten­sions may have fad­ed from the pub­lic mind and the media may be pre­oc­cu­pied with glob­al warm­ing, but the weapons are still out there, and the dooms­day men are still at work devel­op­ing new ones.

Few if any authors write for the mon­ey. I do it because I love books – both read­ing them and writ­ing them. Dooms­day Men and my last book, City: A Guide­book for the Urban Age, took at least three years to research and write. The book I’m now work­ing on – a cul­tur­al his­to­ry of crime, detec­tives and cities – will also take at least that long. Nowa­days advances from pub­lish­ers are extreme­ly mod­est (I’m being polite; stronger words occur to me). You couldn’t live on them for a year, let alone three. I’m not an aca­d­e­m­ic, so I scrape a liv­ing togeth­er by review­ing and edit­ing.

There’s a lot of talk nowa­days about crowd­fund­ing new books and arts projects. That’s fine but the best way I know of sup­port­ing an author whose work you enjoy is to buy their books, and that includes their back­list too. So if you’ve enjoyed read­ing this brief post, which of course is based on what I wrote in my book Dooms­day Men, then you might like to con­sid­er read­ing the whole book.

You can buy absurd­ly cheap copies of it now on Ama­zon (I don’t know who prof­its from these; cer­tain­ly not the author) or if you real­ly want to sup­port me and my writ­ing you might like to con­sid­er buy­ing the e‑book. You can buy it direct from Pen­guin (ePub) or from Ama­zon in the UK (Kin­dle), or Barnes & Noble (Nook) in the US.

Thank you for read­ing. Now go and watch Kubrick’s amaz­ing film!

Doomsday weapon announced by Russia, PUnch, vol 247, 23 Sep 1964, p 443

The New York Nobody Knows

29 November 2013 | cities, New York

Soci­ol­o­gist William B Helm­re­ich knows New York City bet­ter than most peo­ple. He has walked almost every block in the city’s five bor­oughs. That’s 6,048 miles in the last four years. Or, mea­sured in shoe leather — that’s nine pairs of shoes. Helm­re­ich admits that “you have to be a lit­tle crazy to explore the city as I did”. But the result is a won­der­ful book, one that echoes with the voic­es of one of the great­est cities on the plan­et.

My review of The New York Nobody Knows is in Sat­ur­day’s Guardian. This is the first para­graph:

’ ”Walk­ing is the best way to explore and exploit the city”, writes Iain Sin­clair in Lights Out for the Ter­ri­to­ry. It’s a truth that was dis­cov­ered in 19th-cen­tu­ry Paris by the flâneur – that “botanist on asphalt”, to use Wal­ter Ben­jam­in’s mem­o­rable phrase – who turned the city’s boule­vards into draw­ing rooms in which to dis­sect the met­ro­pol­i­tan crowd. And now, from Tokyo to Lon­don, urbanophiles agree that it is through what Michel de Certeau beau­ti­ful­ly termed “the long poem of walk­ing” that you can tru­ly under­stand that most com­plex and beguil­ing fea­ture of mod­ern life: the city.’

Read the rest online here.

City published in Japan

22 August 2013 | City, Tokyo

Japanese edition

The Japan­ese edi­tion of City arrived in the post today and it looks great! It’s pub­lished by Kawade Shobo Shin­sha in Tokyo, one of my favourite cities, and is avail­able from Ama­zon Japan and all good book­stores. Enjoy!

The Round Tower

20 August 2013 | architecture, Bohr, cities, Copenhagen, Detectives, Jan Gehl, Sarah Lund

Until last week, when­ev­er I thought about Copen­hagen — and I admit that was not often — three peo­ple came to mind: Niels Bohr, Jan Gehl, and Sarah Lund.

Niels Bohr

Bohr’s Insti­tute for The­o­ret­i­cal Physic­s was at the cut­ting edge of the­o­ret­i­cal physics in the ear­ly 1930s, and the set­ting for a mem­o­rable per­for­mance of Goethe’s Faust by the sci­en­tists (much more on this here). Jan Gehl is an influ­en­tial Dan­ish urban­ist and archi­tect who pio­neered pedes­tri­an­iza­tion in cities. In 1962, Copen­hagen became the first city to pedes­tri­an­ize a main thor­ough­fare. The two-kilo­me­ter-long Strøget is Europe’s longest pedes­tri­an street or, to be more accu­rate, col­lec­tion of streets. And, of course, as all fans of crime fic­tion know, Copen­hagen pro­vides the set­ting for Detec­tive Inspec­tor Sarah Lund’s inves­ti­ga­tions in the superb Dan­ish TV series For­bry­delsen (The Killing, 2007).

But now when I think of Copen­hagen anoth­er name springs to mind, and with it a unique build­ing.

Last week I spent a relax­ing cou­ple of days in Copen­hagen. It’s a beau­ti­ful city of red-tiled rooftops, bicy­cles, cob­bled streets full of peo­ple rather than choked with cars, and colour­ful hous­es reflect­ed in canals. Great street per­form­ers too, like these two demon­strat­ing an impres­sive bal­anc­ing trick.

Copenhagen street performers,

It’s also a city that is clear­ly seri­ous about its envi­ron­men­tal responsibilities: for instance, the city recy­cles more of its waste than any oth­er Euro­pean cap­i­tal. But above all it’s a won­der­ful­ly friend­ly city.

The man who did most to shape the city you see today is King Chris­t­ian IV who was known as the “archi­tect king”. Dur­ing his six­ty-year reign (1588–1648) he for­ti­fied the city and reclaimed land from the sea. He also built the Rosen­borg Palace (1606), with its moat and ele­gant red-brick tow­ers. One of its more unusu­al fea­tures is the Mir­ror Cab­i­net, cre­at­ed for Fred­erik IV in about 1700, a small cham­ber with mir­rors on each wall and even on the floor, which appar­ent­ly the King used to peer up wom­en’s skirts.

Rosenborg Slot, copyright PD Smith

Beau­ti­ful though the Rosen­borg Palace undoubt­ed­ly is, I was more impressed by anoth­er of Chris­t­ian IV’s build­ings. The RundetÃ¥rn, or Round Tow­er, ris­es above the pedes­tri­an zone, on Købmagergade. Mod­elled on Tycho Bra­he’s famous obser­va­to­ry called Stjerneborg (the cas­tle of the stars), the 42-metre-high Round Tow­er is Europe’s old­est func­tion­ing astro­nom­i­cal obser­va­to­ry. Built between 1637 and 1642, it was part of Chris­t­ian IV’s Trini­tatis Com­plex which com­bined a church, a schol­ar­ly library (hold­ing some 10,000 books) and an obser­va­to­ry into one enlight­ened archi­tec­tur­al struc­ture.

Round Tower, copyright PD Smith

But what is tru­ly remark­able about this tow­er — and appar­ent­ly it is unique in Euro­pean archi­tec­ture — is the 209-metre spi­ral ramp that leads up to the view­ing plat­form at the top: a sin­u­ous path­way, paved with ochre-coloured bricks, wind­ing itself sev­en and a half times around the hol­low core of the tower. It’s an extra­or­di­nary struc­ture that feels almost nat­ur­al rather than man-made, as if it is a stone tree that has grown out of the heart of the city. As I walked up the spi­ral path, I was remind­ed of the fan­tas­ti­cal tow­ers of Dutch artist MC Esch­er or some­thing dreamed up by Borges.

Round Tower, copyright PD Smith

It’s said that when Tsar Peter the Great of Rus­sia vis­it­ed the city in 1716 he rode up to the top on horse­back. And in 1902, a vis­it­ing Ger­man demon­strat­ed the pow­er of the lat­est Benz-Gagge­nau auto­mo­bile by dri­ving up the spi­ral ramp. (There’s an amaz­ing pho­to of this sur­re­al moment in tech­no­log­i­cal and archi­tec­tur­al his­to­ry here.) For­tu­nate­ly, Copen­hagen has sub­se­quent­ly decid­ed to keep cars in the city firm­ly under con­trol. There is lit­tle doubt that if, like me, you pre­fer to explore a city on foot or on bicy­cle then this is as close as it gets to urban heav­en. More peo­ple cycle to work in Copen­hagen than in the entire Unit­ed States of Amer­i­ca, as Taras Grescoe has point­ed out.

Round Tower, copyright PD Smith

From the top of the Round Tow­er you can gaze out across the roof­s­cape of the medieval city cen­tre, with its wind­ing streets and half-tim­bered hous­es. In the dis­tance you can even see the 8‑k­ilo­me­tre-long Øresund Bridge that links Den­mark and Swe­den.

Copenhagen Rooftops, copyright PD Smith

Copen­hagen is a mem­o­rable city, designed for peo­ple rather than cars, and one that oth­er cities have much to learn from. It’s a com­mu­ni­ty with a rich his­to­ry, not a col­lec­tion of dense­ly pop­u­lat­ed, Bal­lar­dian traf­fic islands, as so many cities have become. For vis­i­tors from Britain, it’s not a cheap city though — eat­ing out was cer­tain­ly more expen­sive than Berlin, for instance. But we found some great cafés and restau­rants. A cou­ple that spring to mind: a real­ly excel­lent fish restau­rant is the Fiske­bar, near the cen­tral sta­tion; and if you like Ital­ian food, La Roc­ca is the place for you. And of course, wher­ev­er you go the many pas­tries and dif­fer­ent types of bread are all deli­cious. I wish we had a Dan­ish Kon­di­tori near us…

So thank you — or “Tak” as they say there — Copen­hagen for mak­ing me feel wel­come (at the air­port the bor­der guard actu­al­ly said “wel­come to Den­mark!” when he hand­ed me my pass­port; I bet UK offi­cials don’t say that at Heathrow). And thank you Copen­hagen for intro­duc­ing me to the RundetÃ¥rn and to your archi­tect king, Chris­t­ian IV.

Round tower, copyright PD Smith

As ever, you can find more pic­tures of Copen­hagen on my Flickr page.

Danish flag, copyright PD Smith

Berlin and Munich Revisited

12 July 2013 | Berlin, Brecht, cities, German culture, Munich, Uruk | 5 comments

I first vis­it­ed Berlin in win­ter 1990, a year after the momen­tous events that led to the fall of the Ger­man Demo­c­ra­t­ic Repub­lic. I was study­ing Ger­man lit­er­a­ture at uni­ver­si­ty and Berlin was a city I had already explored through the pages of nov­els, such as Döblin’s won­der­ful Berlin Alexan­der­platz. When I was there the Wall was still stand­ing, although it was being steadi­ly erod­ed by sou­venir hunters armed with ham­mers and chis­els, each one eager to sal­vage a con­crete piece of Cold War his­to­ry. I remem­ber how deeply strange it felt, unre­al even, to walk beside what the GDR had termed an “Antifaschis­tis­ch­er Schutzwall” (anti-Fas­cist pro­tec­tive bar­ri­er), ven­tur­ing into areas where not long ago only armed bor­der guards were allowed to walk. More than a hun­dred peo­ple were killed try­ing to escape to the West from the east­ern sec­tor.

Berlin Wall, December 1990. Copyright PD Smith

Build­ings near the east­ern side of the Wall looked as though they had been trapped in a time warp, their black­ened façades still pock-marked with bul­let holes and shrap­nel scars from the last war.

Dilapidated houses by the Berlin Wall, 1990. PD Smith

The sign at Check­point Char­lie looked like a prop from a Cold War movie. At any moment, I expect­ed to catch sight of Har­ry Palmer hur­ry­ing past to a ren­dezvous with a Sovi­et spy in some dark Berlin alley.

Sign at Checkpoint Charlie, Berlin, 1990. PDSmith

When I went back at the end of the 1990s, Berlin was being trans­formed. The city had become one giant build­ing site. Pots­damer Platz was a vast, mud­dy hole in the ground and cranes stalked the city’s sky­line. The stri­dent sounds of con­struc­tion — pile-dri­vers and pneu­mat­ic drills — were the birth cries of a new unit­ed Berlin.

Reichstag. Photo copyright PD Smith

Revis­it­ing the city today I’m struck by how dif­fer­ent it feels. The mud, bull­doz­ers and black­ened façades have large­ly gone. The city’s mon­u­ments, like the Bran­den­burg Gate, have now been cleaned and restored. Grime scrubbed away and scars healed. The once divid­ed city has been replaced by an appar­ent­ly unit­ed and con­fi­dent cap­i­tal. There are new glass and steel edi­fices on every street, it seems. As a result the city’s past is less visible. But it’s still there. And some­times all you have to do to find it, is to look down at your feet.

Stolpersteine. Copyright PD Smith

Stolper­steine — stum­bling stones — com­mem­o­rate the vic­tims of Nation­al Social­ism and are placed in the pave­ment out­side their for­mer homes. There are thou­sands of these Stolper­steine in Berlin’s streets. It’s a beau­ti­ful­ly sim­ple and res­o­nan­t idea, the brain­child of artist Gunter Dem­nig. These stum­bling stones make the past vivid­ly present: it’s there beneath your feet, wait­ing to be dis­cov­ered like the lay­ers of his­to­ry that lie just under the sur­face of any ancient city.

“Irgen­wann fällt jede Mauer” — even­tu­al­ly every wall falls. That was one of the slo­gans paint­ed onto the Berlin Wall. And, indeed, most of the Wall has now gone, ground up to make grav­el for the roads that now link East and West Berlin. A struc­ture that once divid­ed peo­ple final­ly helped to bring them back togeth­er again. In today’s some­what ster­ile Pots­damer Platz, a small piece of the Wall remains, its graf­fi­ti-scrawled sur­face now embell­ished with pieces of chew­ing gum. The struc­ture that once defined this city is now almost invis­i­ble, an absent pres­ence whose for­mer course is traced through the square by a line of unob­tru­sive cob­ble­stones. Once again, his­to­ry lies beneath your feet in this city.

Potsdamer Platz. Copyright PD Smith

 

Along­side the Riv­er Spree, a longer sec­tion of the Wall remains, turned into an impromp­tu can­vas for street artists and renamed the East Side Gallery. It includes this great piece by Thier­ry Noir who, togeth­er with Christophe Bouchet, was one of the first artists to paint the west­ern side of the Wall in 1984.

Thierry Noir, East Side Gallery. Photo copyright PD Smith.

Sad­ly the future is uncer­tain for at least part of what is the longest remain­ing stretch of the Wall. The land beneath it is grow­ing more valu­able by the day and devel­op­ers are gath­er­ing for the kill. A new apart­ment block and a hotel are on the draw­ing board and once again the bull­doz­ers are on the move.

In the new Berlin there is undoubt­ed­ly much that is impres­sive, such as Nor­man Fos­ter’s recon­struc­tion of the Reich­stag. The view across the city from its dome is tru­ly mem­o­rable. It was cer­tain­ly worth get­ting up ear­ly on a bright Sun­day morn­ing to see it, before too many tour groups arrived. It’s a remark­able struc­ture. But in this city haunt­ed by its past, what par­tic­u­lar­ly struck me was the graf­fi­ti made in 1945 by Sovi­et sol­diers, who scratched their names on the para­pets of the roof as they looked out across the black­ened, bombed-out ruins of a once great city.

A city is a palimpsest. Each gen­er­a­tion writes their own urban sto­ry. But some traces of the past need to be retained as we hur­ry into the future.

Reichstag graffiti. Photo copyright PD Smith.

Daniel Libe­skind’s Jew­ish Muse­um (2001) is anoth­er pow­er­ful piece of archi­tec­ture. Instead of the uplift­ing trans­paren­cy of Fos­ter’s dome, Libe­skind’s build­ing is full of unset­tling, dis­ori­en­tat­ing spaces, such as the Holo­caust Tow­er, where the dis­tant sounds of the city echo in the dark­ness.

Holocaust Tower. Photo copyright PD Smith.

The Holo­caust Memo­r­i­al, designed by Peter Eisen­man (2005), was cer­tain­ly pow­er­ful but I found it also strange­ly anony­mous. A grey, name­less necrop­o­lis at the heart of the liv­ing city. Com­ing across the Stolper­steine in Berlin’s cob­bled streets was for me a far more poignant reminder of the city’s — and Ger­many’s — dark past.

Holocaust Memorial. Copyright PD Smith

While I was in Berlin I saw an exhi­bi­tion at the Perg­a­mon Muse­um about one of the ear­li­est cities — “Uruk: 5000 Jahre Megac­i­ty”. If you’re vis­it­ing Berlin before it ends in Sep­tem­ber and you’re inter­est­ed in the his­to­ry of cities, this is a must-see. They have brought togeth­er an extra­or­di­nar­i­ly rich col­lec­tion of arte­facts illus­trat­ing the life and cul­ture of the world’s first urban civ­i­liza­tion.

Like Berlin, Uruk was also famous for its wall, some 9 km long and con­struct­ed using 306,000,000 bricks. For the Sume­ri­ans who found­ed Uruk more than five thou­sand years ago, Eden was not a gar­den but a city. In their leg­ends the first city was called Eridu and it was cre­at­ed by the god Mar­duk. He want­ed to give his peo­ple a place of shel­ter, a refuge to pro­tect them from a nat­ur­al world that can be harsh and unfor­giv­ing. The Sume­ri­ans did not long for some myth­ic rur­al idyll, an unob­tain­able Arca­dia. They believed the city was the place where all their dreams would be realised. And Uruk became one of the largest of their cities — although, with respect to the organ­is­ers of the exhi­bi­tion, not quite a “megac­i­ty”.

The exhi­bi­tion is superb though. This 4000-year-old clay plaque of a winged god­dess (pos­si­bly Ishtar) struck me as being espe­cial­ly beau­ti­ful.

Ishtar. Photo copyright PD Smith.

Berlin has cer­tain­ly changed since I first vis­it­ed. That’s not sur­pris­ing. Change is an essen­tial part of urban life. Old struc­tures must make way for new ones. But there is a pow­er­ful con­ti­nu­ity, too, in cities. That con­ti­nu­ity has at its heart the human sto­ry of desires and dreams, a sto­ry that stretch­es back to Uruk and beyond. Amidst the glass and steel and opti­mism of today’s cities, we need reminders, like the Stolper­steine, of those human sto­ries.

East Side Gllery

After a few days in Berlin, I caught the ICE train down south to Munich, where I lived in the ear­ly 1990s. It’s a beau­ti­ful city, but of course very dif­fer­ent from Berlin, both then and now. Apart from the Dirndls and Leder­ho­sen, it’s always been a more afflu­ent and expen­sive city. For for­eign­ers like me, the dialect is also far more dif­fi­cult to under­stand. One of my first ports of call in Munich was the Oly­dorf, or the 1972 Olympic Vil­lage, where I used to live.

Olydorf

It’s been ren­o­vat­ed recent­ly which I hope means that today’s stu­dent occu­pants no longer have to put up with cock­roach­es in the apart­ments and pigeons occu­py­ing the bal­conies. (Even­tu­al­ly I became quite skilled at dis­patch­ing cock­roach­es with a rolled up copy of the Süd­deutsche Zeitung.) Some things do change — and for the bet­ter.

But I was relieved to see that oth­er things had­n’t changed. My favourite café-bar in Munich was Drug­store, oppo­site Wedekind­platz in Schwabing. It was found­ed in the swing­ing six­ties and is still going strong. It’s the friend­liest bar any­where. And they serve great food. What more can you ask for? Well, per­haps anoth­er beer…

drugstore

In fact, in Munich many things were just as I remem­bered them. The Englis­ch­er Garten, which opened in 1791, is still one of the most beau­ti­ful urban parks I know.

Eng Gdn.

The Vik­tu­alien­markt still offers a mouth-water­ing selec­tion of the most per­fect food on the plan­et.

Viktualienmarkt

And, of course, a Weizen remains the best beer on this world or any oth­er.

But some things have changed in Munich. The city is expand­ing, as is clear from the extend­ed U‑Bahn lines. The city’s art gal­leries have been attract­ing inter­na­tion­al vis­i­tors since 1830 when the Glyp­tothek opened. New gal­leries have opened since I was there, includ­ing the Pinakothek der Mod­erne and the beau­ti­ful­ly designed Muse­um Brand­horst. The Lenbach­haus, one of my favourite art gal­leries (I love its Blaue Reit­er col­lec­tion), has also been expand­ed and is now even bet­ter than before.

Lenbachhaus

If you go to the Lenbachhaus, don’t miss Rudolf Schlichter’s bril­liant por­trait of Bertolt Brecht. Although in most peo­ple’s minds, Brecht is asso­ci­at­ed with Berlin — both before and after the war (he is buried in the Dorotheen Ceme­tery in what was East Berlin) — he was born and grew up in Augs­burg, not far from Munich. He also lived in Munich in the 1920s.

Brecht.

Walk­ing around Munich today and trav­el­ling on its excel­lent pub­lic trans­port sys­tem, I was pleased to see that the city that used to pride itself on being the “Welt­stadt mit Herz” — the world city with heart — is now far more diverse than it once was. The world has come to Munich. Despite its con­ser­vatism and love of tra­di­tion, Munich is now tru­ly a glob­al city.

It was great to revis­it Berlin and Munich. They are very dif­fer­ent cities. But both are dynam­ic, excit­ing places with long his­to­ries and promis­ing futures — cities where any­thing can hap­pen. A sign I saw in the won­der­ful Pren­zlauer Berg dis­trict of Berlin put it per­fect­ly: If you can dream it, you can do it.

And that’s true now in vibrant cities like Berlin or Munich, just as it once was in Uruk.

Prenzlauer Berg.

You can see all the pho­tos in this post, as well as more from Berlin and Munich, on my Flickr page in high­er qual­i­ty than my site allows (there’s a set for Berlin and Munich). I hope this post and the images encour­age you to vis­it some of the places for your­self.

If you do, here are a few rec­om­men­da­tions of cafés and restau­rants.

In Berlin: Restora­tion 1900, a great local bar-restau­rant in Pren­zlauer Berg. For a spe­cial occa­sion Alpen­stueck is worth trying. The Fri­day Turk­ish mar­ket off Kot­tbusser Strasse is amaz­ing. If you’re look­ing for fresh food, this is the place to go. Near here at Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Cau is a friend­ly bar with a won­der­ful­ly sun­ny ter­race beside the canal. If you’re in Mitte, Café Oliv is worth a vis­it.

In Munich: wie schon gesagt, Drugstore. One of my oth­er favourite bar-restau­rants is Atzinger near the uni­ver­si­ty — a relaxed place, that serves huge por­tions and great beer. If you’re around Frauen­hofer­strasse, Das Kranz is a great lit­tle restau­rant. For superb Viet­namese food look no fur­ther than Cyclo in There­sien­strasse. And for a deli­cious veg­e­tar­i­an menu, go to Prinz Myshkin not far from Marien­platz. If you like beer gar­dens, head for the Chi­ne­sis­ch­er Turm in the Englis­ch­er Garten. An amaz­ing set­ting to enjoy a beer. Viel Spass!